Small
Flathead Screwdriver Phillips Head Screwdriver
4mm
Allen wrench (some applications) Needlenose Pliers
10mm
Wrench
Ready for Installation:
Step
1: Remove the air filter lid, take out the two filter elements and
the flame arrestor (silver plate). Remove the 2 phillips head screws inside
the air box. Remove the air box, and carb from the intake manifold.
Step
2: Now that the carb is loose, remove the throttle cable from the
carb. And use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull off the fuel lines.
Step
3: Remove the 2 phillips head screws from the stock intake manifold
and remove the manifold. The gasket between the intake manifold and
cylinder is re-useable unless it is torn, it usually sticks to the cylinder
when the intake manifold is removed.
Step
4: Before you go any further, Assemble the carb, velocity stack and
manifold. Check to see that the screws don't come through the backside
of the manifold. This problem is very common with the brown zenoah
manifold and will cause kill switch to have problems, and a severe intake
leak making tuning the carb impossible.
Step
5: If you are installing the brown Zenoah manifold you will need
to trim the cylinder shroud to clear the upper right hand corner of the
intake manifold, or the manifold will not seal properly causing an intake
leak.
Step
6: If you are installing the PSWS "Hi-Tech" manifold or the ECC manifold,
install them with the pulse hole down and the slot to the right hand side
Step
7: Now remove the throttle cable end from the stock carb by removing
the "C" clip, and install it on the throttle arm of the H.P. Carb.
Step
8: Next install the throttle cable and nut onto the H.P. Carb Linkage.
Step
9: Now slip the return spring over the end of the throttle
cable and fit the end of the throttle cable into the cable end. You
will need to hold the carb throttle arm open to get the cable in.
Pictured above is the proper return spring installation
Step
10: Install the yellow fuel line onto the barbed fitting nearest
the primer bulb and the blue line on the other barbed fitting.
Step
11: Next slip the carb mount screws through the velocity stack
and install the velocity stack on the carb. With the screws
all of the way through the carb slip on the H.P. carb gasket
Step
12: Install the carb onto the manifold with the primer bulb towards
the gas tank. (up on Zenoah manifold)
Step
13: With the brown zenoah manifold the throttle cable must come up
from under the deck and make a "u-turn" This can cause poor throttle return
if the throttle cable is not in excellent condition.
Step
14: I recommend that you spray the moving parts on the carb with
WD-40 for better operation
Step
15: If you are using a Billet intake manifold , disconnect the kill
switch at the bullet connector below the carb, or you will have No Spark.
Step
16: Now install the air filter and you are ready to ride.
Advancing
your timing
Tools
you will need:
Phillips
Head Screwdriver Side Cutters
3mm
Allen Wrench 8mm Allen Wrench
12mm
Allen Wrench Flywheel Puller
Oil
Filter Wrench or Channel Locks Red Locktite
Business
Card
Step
1: Remove the 5 phillips head screws attaching the fan cover
and remove the fan cover with pullstart still attached
Step
2: Remove the spark plug wire from the plug. Disconnect the kill
switch wire from the throttle cable below the carburetor.
Step
3: Remove the Black phillips screw
holding the engine shroud on, it is above the fender, between
the gas tank and motor, and remove
the shroud.
Step
4: Remove the spark plug, and the
two
3mm Allen screws holding the ignition
coil
to the cylinder
Step
5: Remove the Air Filter Lid, both filter elements, the silver flame
arrestor, and the two phillips head screws which attach the carb to the
manifold. DO NOT LOSE THE GASKET between the carb and manifold.
Swing the carb out of the way with the fuel lines and throttle cable still
attached.
Step
6: With the piston at top dead center
mark
the flywheel and the cases with a
sharpie
marker so that the marks allign
at
Top Dead Center. Double check to
make
sure they allign at Top Dead Center
Step
7: Now put a second mark 8mm to
the
right (clockwise) of the first mark. Measuring 8mm can be done with
an 8mm wrench
if
calipers are not available. More space is NOT better! Adding
more than 8mm will increase heat, and can cause internal damage.
Step
8: Now remove the 12mm nut in the
center
of the flywheel. DO NOT USE a Screwdriver to hold the flywheel.
An oil filter
wrench
will not damage the flywheel and is
cheap
at any auto parts store. You may also use large channel locks
Step
9: Using a flywheel puller; remove
the
flywheel. If you do not have a puller DO
NOT
try to remove the flywheel! You will
damage
the flywheel, crank, cases, etc...
Step
10: With the flywheel removed, use
side
cutters to remove the key from the
crank.
Step
11: Now with the flywheel off, bring
the
piston to Top Dead Center. Re-Install
the
flywheel so that the mark on the flywheel
is
lined up with the second mark you made
on
the cases. (The one on the right). Hand
tighten
the flywheel and check to make sure
the
2nd mark is lined up with the flywheel
while
the piston is at top dead center.
Now
tighten the flywheel to 20ft/lbs and
recheck
your marks a final time.
Step
12: Using a business card between the
coil
and flywheel magnets to set the clearance, re-install the coil. Rotate
the flywheel a full turn to make sure there is no contact.
Step
13: Before re-installing the spark plug,
we
recommend cutting the seal off with
side
cutters. This will raise the compression
and
increase torque! To ensure a good seal
we
use Red lock-tite where the washer was removed, NOT ON THE THREADS!
Step
14: Re-Install the shroud, routing
the
kill switch wire so that it does not
contact
the hot cylinder.
Step
15: Re-Install the fan cover, kill switch
wire
& the plug wire. You are now ready to ride.
Installing
a Drive Spindle
Step
1. Remove the back tire
Step
2. Remove the 3 nuts holding the gas tank on
Step
3. No need to remove the gas lines, just clear the tank of the studs and
swing it back out of the way onto the deck
Step
4. Now that the tank is off and you can see the drive spindle, in the end
of it you can see the allen bolt. Keep the spindle from spinning
by place a pair of vise grips at the very top of the spindle and
remove the allen bolt.
Step
5. The spindle is a wedge-mated fit on the crank and is on very tight.
DO NOT HIT IT WITH A HAMMER. Stick a Phillps Head screwdriver in
the end where the Allen bolt came out and rotate screwdriver in a circular
motion( like mixing in a mixing bowl) while applying pressure. This
should loosen the spindle until it falls off.
Now
Install the New Spindle, Hold it with vise grips while tightening the allen
bolt. And your redy to ride.
Adjusting
your back tire
This
is a very important thing to do because if you do not when you go of a
curb or eny jump you will break your drive shaft.
Step
1: Open the quick release axle to unlock and allow free movement
of the wheel. (wing nut may also need to be loosened)
Step
2: With the Quick Release Axle opened and loosened, rotate the purple
engine protection washer (EPW) down, away from the rear gas tank support
stud.
Step
3: Apply 75lbs of weight on to the rear part of the deck by kneeling
on the "D" with one knee with the rear wheel on the ground. This
applies proper wheel/spindle contact.
Step
4: Rotate the purple engine protection washer (EPW) up to contact
the rear gas tank stud while weight is still applied, this will prevent
overload to engine bearing and crankshaft.
Step
5: Lock down the Quick Release lever with snug pressure. This
will lock the axle in position until readjustment is required. Know your
redy to ride.
